We started out the morning in a very difficult manner—attempting to learn the local xhosa language. It is completely different from any western language. There are three different types of clicks throughout the vocabulary, and each is pronounced differently depending on the word. It was overwhelming, but a lot of fun to try our best at the native tongue.
Our teacher taught us about some of the cultural traditions of the locals and the proper way to greet people without being offensive. I know it will be very beneficial in getting to know the kids of IMBEWU to find ways to attempt to make a connection through a proper greeting.
We had a chance to eat lunch and use the computer lab before boarding a bus to tour the local townships. Our tour guide grew up in the township ans still lives in one of the upper middle class areas today. As we drove along, it was still amazing to see all of the creative ways people have put scraps together to create shelter for themselves and their families.
We stopped at the new Red Museum to walk through the exhibit on the history of the township and to learn about the people who were most influential in the eventual overthrow of the Apartheid rule. Our guide then walked us through one of the neighborhoods and told us about the way of life of the people who live in the shacks. No toilets. Scarce running water. Fear of theft and rape. Even with all of the reasons to want to give up on life, all of the people seemed happy and carefree.
We drove through miles upon miles of township. We saw women selling “Smileys” on the side of the road (roasted goat head) and took in the sights of all the local businesses with handmade signs. There were areas of obvious devastation and some streets looked like they were better off than others. Our guide showed us the houses that were built under the Nelson Mandela presidency—cookie cutter concrete houses painted in a rainbow of colors. He said that although some of the homes were in better condition than others, it was difficult to request people to move from the shacks of squatterville because the new houses were out of the way for jobs and food.
A woman selling ceramics welcomed us into her home/studio and I bought a little clay mask for 50 Rand (~6 bucks). A group of kids and beggars kept close eye on the gate as we went in and out and were excited when we asked to take their picture. Everyone loves to see themselves on camera. We walked past a pack of newborn puppies yelping for food. Their eyes were closed and they looked as though they were born the day before. It is sad to think about what kind of condition they are in and how low their chance of survival is in the townships.
After stopping on a lookout point on top of a mountain to view the entire stretch of township houses, we went to a local “shebeen” to get a beer and pass some time before our dinner reservations. Alcohol is a concern in the townships, but we stopped to grab a refreshment at a bar that was attached to someone's home. It cost less than a dollar for a bottle of Windhoek (a Namibian lager). These sort of businesses are common in the townships.
Finally, we sat down for dinner in a second Shebeen down the road, where I ordered a Savanna Dry (a South African cider) and indulged in one of the best meals I have had in a few months. The cook prepared us a meat-heavy menu with several types of sausage, bar-b-qued pork, stewed beef, vegetables, bean “chackalaka” and rice. It was so flavorful—I went back for seconds. We were joined by Miss Port Elizabeth, who obviously had a good time talking to Kinan. She welcomed us to the city and wished us good luck in the rest of our initiatives.
It was still early when we returned to the Langerry Flats, so we walked to the liquor store across the street and purchased a bottle of Amarula—a South African liquor similar to Bailey's. We played pig, discussed what we had seen that day and hung out for the rest of the evening until we called it an early night for our early morning.
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